Wonderful, Wonderful Copenhagen

Copenhagen is quickly emerging as the go-to spot for a relaxing gastronomic city break. Last year the city set its own record of 26 Michelin stars, as well as its first three Michelin starred restaurant.

NOMA, named the ‘world’s best restaurant’ four

years in a row, is widely renowned for the reinvention of Nordic cuisine.

But it’s not all about stars and white linen. The Danes have a word for the cosiness of the soul – ‘Hygge’ – and there are plenty of places to fulfil this in the Danish capital.

Where to eat?

For a relaxed evening, try the Meatpacking District in Vesterbro. Still in parts used for its original function, it is now a cool mecca of independent restaurants and bars - arguably the city’s most interesting and lively culinary area.

There are options for every palate.

Warpigs Brewpub (Flæsketorvet 25) a popular all day micro-brewery for the craft beer and the smoked meats lover, everything here is brewed or smoked on site.

For pizza devotees check out the authentic wood-fired pizzeria Mother (Høkerboderne 9).

One of the best seafood joints in the city, with décor to match, Kødbyens Fiskebar (Flæsketorvet 100) is packed with deckchairs in the summer months. Bæst (Guldbergsgade 29) is a buzzing neighbourhood restaurant, located in the trendy Norrebro, from the same stable as popular organic Michelin restaurant Relæ (Jægersborggade 41).

Think minimalist organic Scandi design and sharing tables, coupled with some show-stopping meat hanging cabinets. All the baking for Bæst is prepared next door in popular corner bakery Mirabelle (Guldbergsgade 29), with its perfect spot at the window for fresh morning croissants and coffee.

Take a pit stop at Gasoline Grill (Landgreven 10). Housed in a former petrol station - yet another reminder of the natives’ ability to reinvent - it is now with an interesting gastronomic profile: a specialist porridge cafe, a homemade ice cream maker, coffee roasters and wine bars as well as 40 art galleries make this an essential part of your journey.


Ruby’s (Nybrogade 10) is housed in a 1740 townhouse in the old part of the city. The layout has the effect of being inside someone’s apartment, which adds to its distinctively homely atmosphere. This bar has set the standards for the city’s rising cocktail culture.

The main focus at restaurant Kompasset, far left, is smørrebrød – open sandwiches. Left, raw food at Gråbrødre Torv in the centre of Copenhagen - raw, vegetarian, vegan. 100 percent plant-based gastronomy whisky hideout, only open at weekends. The Barking Dog (Sankt Hans Gade 19) interestingly markets itself as a cocktail pub but it’s a touch more than that. The basement bar is a crossbreed of Mexico, tiki and Hawaiian influences.

A cocktail menu with tales to tell and some abundant agave-based drinks couples with a fun relaxed environment.

Craft beers are popular in northern Europe these days. Mikkeller and Friends (Stefansgade 35), sister to its smaller and somewhat cosier counterpart Mikkeller Bar (Viktoriagade 8), collaborates with other local bars for a varied selection of 40 local ales.

Where to stay?

Sleep on the water in Hotel CPL Living (Langebrogade 1) or for a full hygge experience then Axel Guldsmelden Hotel (Helgolandsgade 11) is only a few minutes’ stroll from the meatpacking restaurants, including a vegan restaurant and an attractive basement spa to rest your weary backside. Staff are enormously welcoming - like many in Copenhagen - and if I have missed anything out I am sure they will fill you in...

Eco-friendly ... bicycle-based market stall

How about a drink?

My favourite area Norrebro has a youthful grass roots vibe and some of the most vibrant streets the city offers. Five years ago, Jægersborgade was a dubious location, now even on its short 150 metre stretch it’s a buzzing cultural hub - Hidden off a bustling main street, Lidkoeb (Vesterbrogade 72b) is housed over three floors in an old pharmacy building.

The slightly rebellious younger sibling to Ruby’s, it is dominated by a long oak bar, with a cosy fireplace and booths. If you’re a whisky enthusiast then their latest addition is a third-floor

Follow Matt on Instagram: @fazmangoes

Matthew Farrell